‘Remains of the Grains’ — Dynasty dolls in Xian are all faces in the dust, reminding me of what I should leave behind in my own afterlife

Bin Ma Yong, a Terra Cotta Warrior, Tomb #3. Photo by Arielle Emmett (c) Arielle Emmett *No photos or text reproduced without permission. In Xian yesterday I made a clean sweep of all the Han and Qin Dynasty tombs. Hadn’t been there for 17 years, and all I remember were dusty roads and the army of terra…