I realize I never finished the story of Harbin, which I visited nearly a year ago. It began with my need to research this icy Russian-Jewish-Chinese enclave in Manchuria, home of the international ice festival, seat of the frigid Songhua River, intending to flesh out the frigid landscape for the novel I’m working on (interminably)… Read More
Just two blocks from my Charleston-style home on Bridges Farm Rd., I plunge almost every day into Lake Davidson, the horseshoe-shaped lake with the gooey clay bottom. On sunny days, when the water turns a pellucid blue-green, I swim as freely as the sparrows and Great Blue Herons swooping down from the trees. Immersed in… Read More
You think about the pit mix who was young once along with your children. They were all of a piece. The dog with the pointy ears and pink and black snout. The child with the pointy ears and the sudden way she darted across the room followed by the puppy. Now the puppy has rheumatism.… Read More
January 11, 2016. As I stepped off the train at Harbin West station after an eight hour train ride across the Manchurian flatlands from Beijing, the station was moist and frigid with the Siberian wind and the night which had fallen hours before. It was -29 degrees Celsius as I dragged my two suitcases and… Read More
Yogyakarta in Central Java, Indonesia is a hidden jewel, the seat of Borobudur, the oldest Buddhist temple in the world. I was there two weeks ago at 5 AM, part of my end-stage tour of Indonesia after completing a Fulbright at Universitas Padjadjaran in West Java. The stupas of the 9th century temple are… Read More
Great Cold War debates happen in the most unlikely of places. West Java, Indonesia, March 26. Today I’m invited to a very dressy event. A Russian Ambassador to Indonesia along with a Vice Minister of Telecom and Mass Communication arrive at the university to attend a big do — a celebration of Russian language, media, and… Read More
It’s been three weeks so chock full of Indonesian experience. Each day new lectures, close encounters with medical and comm students, children, security guards, cooks, geophysicists, random athletes and mop-haired photojournalists and artists. It’s as though I’m being flooded with torrents of images, data, and experiences and I can’t stop the flow. Surprisingly, at… Read More
March 4 2015: First jet lagged impressions… It’s been quite a trip to Bandung, Indonesia: a 24 hour unexpected furlough in Japan, arrival at midnight in Jakarta, strange languages, 1 AM rides through shanty squalor fronted by modern highways. We drove down a single lane into a hotel courtyard, trees swaying with Christmas lights.… Read More
What I Meant to Tell You About Mongolia Hello friends and family– Chapter 1: Mongolia. After waiting in Beijing Capital Airport October 1 for 18 hours for a flight to Outer Mongolia, and having been bumped again from another Mongolian Airlines flight that actually did fly and told to come back at 3 AM to… Read More